Why the Robert Parker brand is irrelevant in India

This post is in response to an article which appeared in the delWine website a few days ago. While it eruditely laid down the hype and commercial implications of wine ratings, the selective role of Robert Parker as a wine critic emerged as one of the highlights of the piece. This gives us an opportunity to find out what India thinks about the emperor of wine and what does his ratings mean to the Indian wine business?

Robert Parker Jr. is probably the most celebrated wine critic of all times. Photo courtesy Wikipedia

It is inevitable that whenever wine ratings are discussed, Robert Parker, by default, becomes the focal point, and it is no different in the mentioned article also. No one in the knowledge of the world wine industry can deny the influence of his ratings on the trade. I have personally written and spoken about this at different forums, particularly his expertise and fascination with a few chosen wine regions and their wines (Bordeaux and California happen to be on the top).

To understand Robert Parker’s eminence as a wine critic, one has to study the man’s rise following the pronouncements of 1982 Bordeaux vintage. He was probably the only expert who stuck his neck out in conviction about the quality of  this vintage when most others wrote-off the year as average. The fact that it turned out to be one of the best vintages of  the century in subsequent tastings, was a vindication of his unquestionable tasting abilities. Incidentally, most who disagreed with him in the beginning had to fall in line with his ratings. This was not only the start of the making of ‘Robert Parker brand’ but also a sign of things to come for the future – the emergence of the ultimate wine critic in true sense, a cult-like figure who possesses a unique ability to affect wine price indices with a single whiff, sip and stroke of his pen.

Like most critics, in addition to a large army of dedicated followers, he has his fair share of detractors too, who feel that ‘Parkerization’ of the wine world has done more harm than good to wine’s cause. While many call him biased and manipulative, there are also those who feel that he is the best thing that could have happened to the modern wine world.

But in spite of Parker’s standing as one of the tallest authorities of wine ratings in rest of the wine world, his influence in affecting drinking habits and the trade in India is almost non-existent. The Parker effect, if any, happens indirectly and outside the country’s boundaries where prices are decided as per his ratings. Inside India, so far there has been no indication of any significant impact of his ratings and reviews.

Why Parker and his ratings are not important in the current Indian wine scene:

1.)  We are not a fine wine consuming nation, which happens to be Parker’s strongest domain. The consumption of wines rated 90+ and more by him is limited to a miniscule part of the wine drinking community in this country (price and availability being the two main reasons). Although there is no data to suggest how small this segment might be, it can be safely assumed that it is in the sub-zero percentage, when compared to the overall price brackets.

The same is true when it comes to collectible and investment grade wines.

2.)  Overwhelming majority of Indian wine consumers do not know the break-up and significance of the 100-point rating scale. Therefore  all the talk about a wine’s placement in the market just based on Robert Parker’s scores does not make any difference. At the most, it is nothing more than a numbers game which only the wine importers like to highlight as strong selling  propositions to the top hotels

3.)  One of the major areas of Parker’s influence is a category which belongs to the futures trade (En Primeur). Since this segment hardly features in the Indian trade, his ratings of these wines are of little or no consequence to the market in the country

4.)  In contrary to suggestions made in the article, even the hospitality industry does not consider it necessary to factor-in Parker or Wine Spectator ratings when selecting wines for their portfolio. Appellation, vintage and brand recognition play much more significant roles in wine selections. Therefore, the reason a 2000 Chateau Petrus ends up in a luxury hotel’s wine list is because the name has a tremendous brand value, belongs to a famous Bordeaux Right Bank appellation (Pomerol) and is from a great vintage. The fact that Parker scored this a perfect 100 is most likely to be a mere coincidence. Now, please don’t suggest that 2000 turned out to be a great vintage because of Parker’s ratings!

Why is this so? Simply because the role of critics in our drinking habits is negligible, to say the least. Ask any sommelier in the country and they will confirm that wines are never sold or selected based on critics’ ratings.

Now coming back to the article in question, and why I was tempted to express my views on the subject. Here are two examples from the article:

Example 1.

I feel, this is just over the top! There was a time when this statement would have been true to a large extent but to suggest that he ‘single-handedly controls the wine rating system’ is unreasonable in today’s context. Thanks to many other equally capable (if not more) critics and credible wine review sites, it is no longer a one man show. Nowadays, many serious wine consumers and fine wine investors refer to multiple reviews and ratings before choosing their wines.

Leading wine websites like Wine-Searcher.com have realized this fact and it is becoming more and more common to find multiple ratings for a particular wine:

Based on consumer demands, it is common to find multiple ratings for wines on top wine websites like Wine-Searcher.com

Example 2.

The statement above is only partially true. No doubt that such scores are likely to add to the wine’s commercial value, but there are many wines scored 90 and below by Parker which are considered great value for money (better quality to price ratio). Additionally, there are also those which receive better scores later, following a period of bottle-aging. Generally, Parker mentions about the likely evolution of certain lower scoring wines into better products, in his tasting notes.

The rise and influence of the wine critic in conventional wine cultures is best exemplified by Robert Parker. An institution in himself, he has re-written the rules of the game which, many believe, will be the cornerstone of wine critiquing business for a long time to come. But as new wine cultures are born and new market dynamics emerge, Parker’s legacy may not have the same relevance. India is one such market where the man with ‘The Million Dollar Nose’ is yet to make a mark. Only time will tell if the Parker brand is able to mesmerise the Indian wine lover in times to come as it has for decades in other parts of the world.

Cheers,

Niladri

Biased wine drinker = Ill-informed wine drinker

So you are a Riesling fan but never drink a wine made from this grape from anywhere else other than Germany or Alsace? Your favourite red is Bordeaux Blend from the eponymous region and you think it is waste to drink such a wine from any other region of the world? You are one of those who feel that the epitome of elegance in a Burgundy Pinot Noir makes every other Pinot simply plonks in comparison? The very thought of drinking a Sangiovese from Australia makes you tizzy? And when it comes to sparkling wines, you are militantly biased against anything else apart from Champagne?

As much out-of-place these may sound in this globalized age, where wine appreciation has transcended geographical boundaries (remember British Palate Vs. American Palate, which is of little interest today?), it is still not uncommon to encounter hardcore and blindfolded loyalty to wines made in particular regions.

Talking about myself…

I was no different until about seven years ago, as a fresh student of the subject and a ‘newbie’ in the field of wine tasting and appreciation. I suffered from this naive tendency of comparing wines from classical wine regions with those which have adopted the same grape varieties, but not necessary the styles. And most often, I would blindly trivialize the latter for being not-at-par to their Old World counterparts.

Have I learnt my lessons?

You bet! Looking back, this ignorance was solely the result of little knowledge and awareness, but now, after upgrading my wine learning and drinking hundreds of wines from many wine regions, and of many styles and genres, I have realized how incomplete and ill-informed wine drinker I was.

So how does one differentiate between styles and appreciate uniqueness of each?

To start with, the intrinsic character (aromas and flavours) of a wine grape hardly changes with regional variation. Be it the black fruit and crème-de-cassis like characters of Cabernet, Riesling’s floral aromas, Chenin blanc’s grated green apple notes or Grenache’s sweet & spicy berry flavours, the primary nature of the grape remains intact irrespective of where it has grown. It’s only the wine-growing conditions (terroir, in technical terms), along with wine-making practices which alter the styles of the final product.

While it will need an entire book to compare the distinct characteristics of similar wines from different regions, I have chosen three most common grape varieties known to produce clearly distinguishable wines when grown outside their traditional environments. For each, I have laid down the characters of both the Old and New World variants, along with a brief conclusion outlining their merits. The idea is to demonstrate the uniqueness and speciality of every style.

1.) Pinot Noir:  This is one grape variety which arouses the most intense passions in terms of their regional following. Terroir in its true sense is most passionately debated whenever this grape is in question. In its home in Burgundy, the quality wines display elegant, layered aromas, mixed with the signature ethereal touch. Except in very warm vintages, the tannins are never too matured and fruits not too ripe (jammy wines in Burgundy’s top echelons would almost be a sin!). Overall, the producers here aim to make complex, age-worthy Pinots which exemplify balance.

A typical Old World Burgundy Pinot Noir Vs. a New World style from Central Otago

In New World regions like Central Otago of New Zealand, the winemakers seldom aim to make their Pinot Noirs in the traditional Burgundian style. Rather, the aim is to let the fruit express itself as much as possible (fruit-forward, in other words). The grapes are normally left longer on the vine to achieve optimum ripeness, resulting in richer wines with silkier tannins. A lot of New World Pinots also have attractive (darker) colours and more elements of ripe dark berries in addition to the usual red fruits (red currants, strawberries, raspberries and red plums). The objective is never to make investment-grade ‘fine wines’ but a product which is enjoyed young and with a wide range of food.

Conclusion: Red Burgundy’s USP is its sheer power of seduction and unique style associated with the appellation it is grown in, which very few regions can match, more so when the grape variety happens to be the fussy Pinot Noir. But that does not take away the credit from the New World Pinots which have created their own distinct profile and are admired for their easy approachability and expressive nature.

If Burgundy is synonymous with raw pleasure and ‘beauty-in-complexity’, the New World Pinot Noirs are enjoyed for their down-to-earth charm and unpretentious character.

2.) Syrah/Shiraz: Syrah is to northern Rhone what Cabernet Sauvignon is to Medoc. Its reputation as one of the noblest grapes of France is best represented in the wines from such venerable appellations as Hermitage and Côte-Rôtie. The fact that the New World’s most famous wine from Syrah/Shiraz, the modern-day Penfolds Grange, started its journey to fame as ‘Grange Hermitage’, bears testimony the stature of the wines from Rhone Valley (Hermitage appellation of Northern Rhone represented the benchmark style of Syrah).

Two wines grown in very different conditions producing varying & unique styles

Rhone Syrah, and especially those from the top appellations, is known for its powerful structure and a complex, but highly attractive, aroma profile. These benchmark examples are characterized by plenty of dark berry aromas with varying notes of mocha, dark chocolate, minerals & wet red earth and smoke, along with distinct peppery spice. A lot of these wines may be highly perfumed when co-fermented with the local white speciality, Viognier (and Marsanne & Rousanne, occasionally). The tannins are always sturdy without being offensive and so is the acidity. Their full body and rich mouthfeel are extremely addictive.

Its new world counterparts are scattered throughout – from Hawkes Bay in New Zealand to Washington State in the US, from Western Cape in South Africa to almost all the regions of Australia; each specialising in their own unique styles of Syrah/Shiraz. But among all these, the Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale in South Australia have created specific and distinct styles which attract a huge fan following world over’. These range from pure & highly extracted ‘fruit bombs’ to more serious wines with plenty of varietal characters as well as secondary aromas of sweet spices, chocolate, licorice and savoury fruit candies. Owing to the warm growing conditions, most have ripe tannins and high alcohol (which, sometimes is so much that the all important balance is compromised), resulting in warm and heavy mouthfeel. But when well-made, these wines are extremely delicious.

Conclusion: It is once again apparent that the Rhone Syrah, being a product of the traditional genre, is more of a classic style – not on-your-face, lean, complex, food-friendly and made to age gracefully.

Now, should this style be taken as the ultimate representation of Syrah/Shiraz? Not if the ones from South Australia are also admired for their individuality displayed by the highly expressive fruit, silky and smooth tannins, rich mouthfeel and full body. Are these traits not to be enjoyed in a wine?

3) Riesling: Riesling, like Pinot Noir, is quite fastidious about its choice of growing conditions. A cool climate variety, it expresses itself fully only when the existing growing conditions are optimum. Germany is the spiritual home of Riesling as its terroir is best suited to its existence. In the classic German regions of Mosel, Rheingau and Nahe, Riesling thrives in many varied microclimates, producing a vast array of styles. The unique characters of quality German Rieslings are inimitable – exotic floral notes, layers of citrus fruits, wet stones and minerals and kerosene-like notes with prominent steely acidity. Riesling’s unique ability to shine in sweeter styles is also well recognised in German wines.

A classic German Riesling & a New World variant

While Alsace and Austria add to the Old World’s portfolio, the New World’s contribution to the worldwide Riesling production is still far and few. Some noticeable regions which have triumphed in creating particular styles of their own include Oregon and Washington states in the US, Marlborough and Central Otago in New Zealand and northern reaches of South Australia – mainly Clare and Eden Valleys. Instead of being intensely floral and minerally, which is the core hallmark of German, Alsatian and Austrian Rieslings, these wines display more fruit characters – grapefruit, apples, nectarine etc. along with citrus blossoms. Some good examples also show hints of flint-like minerals, and most also maintain their fresh acidity.

Conclusion: Germany is blessed with growing conditions that are typically suited to Riesling and naturally the wines demonstrate unmatchable finesse and quality. But over the years, many New World wine regions have also successfully crafted their own styles which have won worldwide acclaim and acceptance.

Genuine wine lovers, like gourmands, are known to be adventurous in their drinking habits and that’s what separates a wine drinker from the rest. The ability to enjoy a wide range of styles and types of wines is the innate quality of genuine wine consumers. One may not like a particular wine due to factors like a less-than-average vintage, poor wine-making and substandard storage & cellaring, but these do not make a style of wine irrelevant or unacceptable.

Cheers,

Niladri

Restaurant ratings can be misleading, unlike (most) wine ratings

I wrote the following article for the delWine/Indian wine Academy website, which appeared under the title ‘Restaurant ratings can be misleading unlike wine‘.

************************

Vir Sanghvi’s latest article about the challenging exercise of rating restaurants deals with many valid issues, but also raises some extremely relevant questions  about the way such ratings are conducted and awards are decided.

Among other issues highlighted in the write-up related to likely aberrations in these ratings, one particular sentence calls for special introspection – “Our own awards, the HT Crystals are also far from perfect. The main awards are voted for by the readers of HT City so you can’t quibble with the people’s choices but honestly, public opinion can be strange!” Here, it is clear that the Hindustan Times sponsored main awards (like many others) are basically ‘People’s Choice Awards’ where the winners are decided by the number of votes they attract from the public.

Next, let’s consider who constitute the ‘public opinion’ in this case. Ideally it should be those who have either visited the restaurant or read and thoroughly grasped the reviews about its offerings and service. Anyone who does not fulfill these criteria is not fit to make an informed decision about rating a restaurant. And certainly not those who couldn’t care less about a restaurant’s placement in the market, like my aunt, for whom Orient Express and Wasabi are nothing more than a famous train and a Sushi accompaniment respectively!

Needless to mention that to rate a product or service objectively, one has to be aware of them to start with, otherwise there will always be concerns about the usefulness of such awards as a guide to great dining options. Most importantly, the award organisers need to plug any loophole to ensure right people expressing their views. At the moment, this shortcoming may be getting overlooked.

Consider a probable scenario (which, by the way, is not a figment of any imagination) – as soon as the restaurants are shortlisted for a category, a scramble starts to gather as many votes as possible for a particular restaurant brand. Emails start floating inside the organisation asking employees, their friends and relatives to vote. Wherever unlimited SMS voting is permitted, it is encouraged to avail the facility to ensure that their chosen restaurant gets the maximum number of votes. Traditional workplaces where social media sites are not accessible, special provisions are made to enable employees to go to sites like Facebook to cast their votes. This practice does not seem too different from reality TV shows where the results are based on frenzied SMS voting, but isn’t it ironical to relegate the measurement of a restaurant’s stature to mere numbers?

While allowing employees to vote for their own restaurant is itself questionable, when others who have no way of determining the quality of a restaurant become a part of this ‘public opinion’, the entire exercise is bound to attract scrutiny. Can ratings based on the participating organisation’s own votes (staff + their family members & friends) be helpful to offer credible dining options to customers?

Such a model of rating restaurants is also likely to unfairly favour a large organisation which has aggressively generated internal votes. This is more likely to be relevant in close contests where the top F&B destination may be decided by a margin of few votes. Having said that, it will be a mistake to assume that all awards or category of awards are likely to be affected by this model of rating. Restaurants like Wasabi, Taipan, Dum Pukht, Indigo and La Piazza among others, have consistently proven their worth to make it to the top of the award charts and mass popularity, and quite deservedly so, irrespective of any minor anomalies in the rating system.

It should also be borne in mind that this by no means is an India only phenomenon. Even the most coveted of all restaurant awards, the Michelin star, has had to face charges of inconsistent rating system apart from other allegations of undue favouritism and bias.

In a nutshell, and in the light of the above challenges, no wonder user review sites like Tripadvisor and Zomato have become so popular for they have brought a level of transparency the hospitality industry so badly needs. As the Indian dining culture evolves and customers have more say in fixing accountability of the hospitality trade, the day is not far when actual customer feedback will be the deciding factor in a restaurant’s success or otherwise.

Lastly, as a wine professional I cannot help but compare the above model with highly recognised wine ratings and awards from around the world, although the dynamics are quite different for each; wine ratings are more objective and scientific while restaurant ratings are subjective and based on unique perceptions. Here I only mean those awards where the wines are tasted blind and judged on a variety of factors and in like-to-like categories.

In spite of the effectiveness of these ratings the wine industry world over is also adapting itself to accommodate user reviews. Websites like CellarTracker are playing a pioneering role in this field and have given a voice to wine consumers world over, which no one can ignore.

Cheers,

Niladri

Introducing the latest Champagne Scholarship winner from India

Sommelier Kathiravan Govindaraj

A brief post to announce and introduce the winner of the Champagne Scholarship, India, for this year.

As is well known within the industry, the WSET, along with Bureau du Champagne started offering this prestigious scholarship last year (Ravi Joshi won it in 2012) to an Indian candidate who has performed exceedingly well in the WSET Level 3 exam and who displays a strong commitment to the subject. Apart from the score in Level 3, the selection process for this award involves completing a written questionnaire to the selectors’ satisfaction followed by interviews. This selection process started in the last quarter of 2012 and the final result was recently declared.

It is with profound sense of pride and pleasure I introduce this year’s winner, Kathiravan Govindaraj, Sommelier extraordinaire of Sheraton Park Hotel, Chennai. Kathiravan was a part of the 18 ITC Hotels resources who underwent the comprehensive 45-day Level 3 wine training program conducted by yours truly at ITC Maurya in August/September 2011 (the first part of the comprehensive training initiatives in the organization). He was always the star performer during the training and internal assessments as well as in the WSET Level 3 exam, which he passed with a distinction (the only candidate to have achieved this in the group). Also, following the training he used his wine learning to very good effect in the hotel where he is the leading Sommelier, winning many guest accolades in addition to improving the wine sales. In fact, he is one of the most wine-focused F&B professionals within the ITC Hotels chain now.

The scholarhip will give him the opportunity to travel to the Champagne region for a comprehensive study tour.

I feel particularly proud to have trained and mentored Kathiravan throughout my time with ITC Hotels and this scholarship is almost like a parting gift for me. Now I hope that he uses this rare opportunity to propel his wine career in India. We need more dedicated wine professionals like him in the country.

Well done Kathir…see you on top!

Cheers,

Niladri

Restaurant Wine Lists – Component of a wine program you cannot afford to ignore

The following article was originally featured in the delWine & Indian Wine Academy website where it appears under the title ‘Making Restaurant Wine Lists‘.

———————————————————————————————————————————————————————-

In spite of India’s late entry into the world of wine as a serious consumer, the country has come a long way in its quest to become a highly sought after market for the beautiful beverage. In the absence of a robust retail and online sector, wine business in India is almost entirely driven by the hospitality industry. And given the high margins derived from their sales in luxury hotels and an ever-increasing demand and awareness, wine has well and truly replaced other (stronger) alcoholic beverages as the leading contributor to F&B revenues in top hotels and their restaurants, as well as standalone properties.

Hotel chains which represent some of the most iconic and signature food brands but were not necessarily typical ‘wine & food destinations’ until sometime ago, are also on a course-correction phase and now investing prudently on improving their wine offerings.

The realization within the country’s F&B community about the importance of wine and its contribution to the bottom line and stature has resulted in added focus on every aspect related to wines, especially wine lists and their content and design. No wonder these have evolved from simple bill of fares to classic menus packed with many unique features and valuable information. All these are a part of a clear business strategy to capitalize on wine’s acceptance and superior placement vis-a-vis other beverages.

Undoubtedly, wine lists are the face of any wine program and often reflect the organisation’s commitment to the ‘wine cause’, a reason why a lot of attention should be dedicated in their creation.

So what makes a great wine list and how can it be optimized to achieve larger business goals? Whilst there may be multiple perceptions about what constitutes a high quality wine list, five main factors need to be addressed while designing one:

• Balance: Achieving harmony across all parameters is the single-most critical requirement in creating world-class wine lists. A right balance of regions / appellations, grapes / blends, styles & types, price points and number of labels (as per your inventory and storage specifications) will go a long way in boosting your image as a wine-friendly gastronomic destination in addition to adding handsomely to your revenues.

Therefore, a selection of ‘terroir-driven’, earthy Pinot Noirs from Burgundy are highly desirable but so are the fruit-forward and upfront Pinots from Central Otago. A heavily oaked and lees-matured Chardonnay with its buttery texture will perfectly accompany some of your richer main course items but the lighter and fruitier Albarino might just be the wine for those who do not appreciate oak in their whites. Similarly, Champagnes are must-haves in every list but why not expand your selection by including other interesting Traditional Method sparkling wines? The possibilities of achieving the right balance in a wine list are many…you just have to put your wine expertise to the best use.

In some F&B destinations of our country, this balance is overlooked to project an enviable ‘luxury quotient’, by loading high-end, super-premium and cult wines in their lists. This unsustainable approach not only restricts the spread of wine’s popularity but also likely to result in a failure of the organisation’s wine program in the long run.

• Information: No menu (food or beverage, doesn’t matter) is worth its salt without the bare minimum information it provides to the customers. For wine, even a bare minimum is not enough as every wine is unique in its profile and carries its idiosyncrasy in the bottle, which needs to be decoded for everyone’s convenience. Great wine lists will also distinguish themselves by offering relevant recommendations with the cuisine served.

Also, it is critical to ensure that all your information is accurate, factually correct and relevant to the wines. Pay particular attention to the spellings…one of the most common issues in many wine lists that I have encountered in India.

• Compatibility to the cuisine: Keeping the balance factor in mind, wine lists must ensure that the majority styles and types of wines in the lists are friendly to the cuisine served. If this factor is not given its due importance, expect a large number of your wines to languish in the stores for a long time, locking in vital cash. For example, it is not advisable to include a lot of heavy textured, oak-influenced and rich wines in a wine list of Oriental cuisine restaurant, serving predominantly light and delicate dishes.

• Overall business objective: What is your pricing policy? Are you overstretching your inventory limits and value to accommodate large number of labels? Do you have optimum storage conditions and cellaring capacity? What is your capacity of holding slow moving items? Is there a robust wine training regime in place which will ensure that the wine offerings are effectively implemented by the frontline staff? What is the realistic percentage of wine sales do you want to achieve against the overall F&B revenue? Does your wine list reflect the spending capacity of your customers? Does it meet their expectations? These are some of the questions one needs to bear in mind while designing the wine list. So, ensure that you have a checklist of your business goals (related to wine sales) handy while creating the list.

• Uniqueness: Last but not the least, set yourself apart by designing a wine list which offers something different to your customers, something that they will remember and talk about. It could be exclusive labels, a never-seen-before design, layout and presentation, a Wow-inducing wine-by-the-glass program, interesting but valid wine pairing recommendations or even simple features like seasonal promotions etc.

Whilst everyone wants to have their share of the wine pie, only those who are willing to invest wisely in their wine program are likely to walk away with the largest slices. A thoughtful investment in your wine list could be one of the two main strategic decisions which is likely to keep you ahead in the race (the other being quality wine training and creation of a dedicated Sommelier cadre).

More about the significance of quality wine education and training coming up later…

Cheers,

Niladri

Memories from the land of Riesling – Part 1

Famous vineyards overlooking the Mosel river

A journey to classic wine regions is nothing short of a pilgrimage for wine lovers, and when such a sojourn is complemented by a combination of exploring the hidden vinous treasures and local gastronomic delights, it certainly becomes a once-in-a-lifetime event. My recent visit to the Mosel and Nahe wine regions of Germany, as part of a small group of wine enthusiasts from India, was one such experience. A first-hand exposure to the wine-growing nuances of the country’s two most famous wine regions was both invaluable and exhilarating.

Germany has all the hallmarks of a quintessential wine country where rich tradition plays a major role in dictating its overall wine profile. Be it the wine-grower’s passion for the vineyards and their terroir, the age-old (but fast-evolving) wine-making practices which follow least-invasive techniques of production, highly refined wine laws or the intrinsic part wine plays in its culture and folklore; everything about the country is a wine aficionado’s delight.

We stayed in a chalet-styled hotel in the quaint and sleepy but stunningly pretty wine town of Trittenheim on the famous Mosel Weinstrasse (Mosel Wine Route), a perfect place to set up base for exploring wine regions of both Mittelmosel (middle Mosel) as well as the adjoining areas of Saar and Ruwer (the two tributaries of Mosel and highly recognised wine districts).

The famous Piesporter Goldtropchen vineyard overlooks the Mosel, just behind the familiar cathedral tower

The four-day trip took us to many famous vineyard sites synonymous with some of the most acclaimed wines of Germany; the likes of Piesporter Goldtropchen, Juffer Sonnenuhr, Trittenheimer Apotheke, Scharzhofberger, Ockfener Bockstein and Oberemmeler Hutte (I know, German names can be real tongue-twisters ), to name a few. For someone who rates German Rieslings as the epitome of quality and sensual pleasure, it was nothing short of a tremendous sense of fulfillment for me to visit their birthplaces and understanding the unique growing conditions.

These wines are some of the most distinct styles in the world and time spent in these vineyards are without a doubt one of the most practical ways to appreciate their quality. The slate-rich soil, steep slopes overlooking the gently meandering river, the vineyards’ orientation (exposure to the sun), sunlight reception by the vines, overall vine management practices, grape ripening pattern depending on a vine’s location etc. – each has a role to play in their distinctive character.

Our visit to the vineyards was followed by the exploration of the region’s winemaking techniques and conducted tastings of every style of Riesling possible…more on the local winemakers and reviews of some chosen wines in the second part of this post.

Apart from winery and vineyard hopping, we also managed to keep ourselves occupied with many other activities, two of which I strongly recommend if you ever happen to visit the region. First, make sure that you go on the Mosel river cruise without a fail…you’ll love it, believe me. For wine lovers, a trip here minus this cruise is like visiting Venice and not taking a Gondola ride. You will be spoilt for choice in terms of photo opportunities, for, there are iconic vineyards dotted all the way on the canvas-like slopes overlooking the river, plus nature’s other un-spoilt splendours. And yes, do not forget to carry an assortment of local Rieslings…they will not only keep your vinous senses active but will also give you a sense of how being in paradise might feel!

The region’s rich wine offerings are complemented by exquisite cuisine made from fresh local produce. Be it the light-textured but somewhat sweet Mosel Trout and other fishes, juiciest of meats, tangy and smoky cured meats, flavourful berries or a range of cheese, this part of Germany surely measures up to any other top gastronomic destination of the world.

Gourmet cuisine made from local ingredients…gastronomic bliss!

Lunch amidst the Kesselstatt vineyards in Saar. Unbeatable experience!

To savour the local food and wine you can either head to the historic town of  Trier with its myriad of road-side cafes or one of the  fine dining restaurants (like the Russell’s) in Trittenhiem. But nothing can beat the experience of sampling the best of local food and wine surrounded by lush green vines, like the one that was organized for us by the Reichsgraf Von Kesselstatt winery in the middle of their Scharzhoffberger vineyard.

Here are some more chosen images from my trip:

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Cheers,

Niladri

ITC Hotels wine training – Season 2

In this brief post, I continue from where I left in a similar story in 2011. As a sequel to a key initiative put in place last year, which was widely covered in the Indian wine media, a large number of key F&B resources from across the ITC Hotels chain went through a structured and customized wine training this year too. Armed with their newfound knowledge and skills, this Sommelier cadre is driving a resurgent wine program throughout the chain.

Since joining ITC Hotels last year, it has been my consistent endeavour to lay special impetus on effective wine training, for it is the most vital ingredient in making a wine program successful. Based on this conviction, a long-term plan has been devised to invest in top-notch wine training programs throughout the group in Luxury Collection hotels. Although the returns on this investment have already started to trickle in, it is expected that in the near and distant future this endeavour will go a long way in creating a benchmark wine culture in the Indian hospitality industry.

This year, a total of 150 F&B service staff at all levels went through a systematic and level-by-level selection and training, culminating in the ‘ITC Hotels Level 3 in Wines’. 25 young professionals were awarded this certification and are now proudly leading various wine initiatives in their respective hotels and F&B outlets. They join the core group of 18 Sommeliers certified in 2011.

Every level of the ITC Hotels wine training has been carefully designed to match-up to world standards as well as to cater to the needs of the Indian hospitality scenario, especially those which dictate the business dynamics of ITC Hotels. Whilst the Level 1 was aimed at building the foundation and Level 2 as the stepping stone to acquire advanced professional skills, the Level 3 has been the most potent in achieving high skill levels and in turn larger business goals. This expansive and all-encompassing wine training not only aims to impart theoretical knowledge about a wide range of topics related to the world of wine but also, and most importantly, create the very best F&B sales workforce in India.

Lastly, it gives me great satisfaction and sense of achievement in claiming that so far in the country, this wine training exercise has been the most detailed and comprehensive within a single hotel chain (both in terms of numbers trained and level and content of training). This claim is based on the information I have gathered from my contacts in other hotel chains, speaking to industry experts and information available in the media.

Here is a slideshow from this year’s trainings:

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Common myths about the Indian wine industry

Acknowledgement: The following article originally appeared on the delWine website and I am reproducing the content as it appears on the site.

**************************

Although there are several myths about wine in India that have been addressed from time to time, there are many common myths about its nascent wine industry that could give a wrong perspective to those wishing to enter the Indian wine market, writes Niladri Dhar who is associated with the industry as an educator and manager in the hospitality business.

The noted French philosopher Roland Gerard Barthes once said “Myth is neither a lie nor a confession, it is an inflexion”. It is extraneous what the myth actually is, what really matters is the way it is used to influence thoughts and ideas.

During my association with the wine industry, I have come across many common myths involving the beverage but the most prevalent ones related to the Indian context are worth looking at in detail to appreciate how they affect wine’s placement in our society.

Indian wines are mediocre: It is like saying all French wines are great. Whilst we should be modest to admit that most of our domestic wines have a long way to go in terms of their quality (and consistency, which in my view is by far a bigger issue), it is unfair to assume that there are no exceptions.

The likes of Fratelli-especially their Sette label, the earlier avatar of Grover’s La Reserva and newbies like York, Reveilo and Zampa are some examples which defy this myth, hands down. They have demonstrated that India is capable of producing good quality wines displaying regional characters and comparable to their peers from other parts of the world.

India’s wine market is booming: It will be naive to deny that India’s wine consumption is on a steady rise but at the same time it is also misleading to suggest that the country’s wine economy is experiencing an unprecedented boom (irrespective of different market dynamics, comparison to Hong Kong, China and even Brazil’s wine success is inevitable in this context).

This myth represents a classic example of riding the ‘India growth story’ bandwagon, the domestic wine news-starved media’s attempt to sensationalise an issue which does not have a credible source. The media is awash with all sorts of, mostly regurgitated, growth figures and we often come across them in wine stories. But are these scientifically derived? Who came up with such numbers and what is their basis? Can anyone take the onus of confirming them? Are these data derived from the HORECA sector only and if yes, how credible are the numbers, as it is a well-known fact that hotels as well as vendors are not known to share all their data with the outside world? These are some uncomfortable but relevant questions which need to be answered if one has to make sense of the growth stories.

Easing of tax and duties alone will take care of India’s wine woes: No doubt the atrocious tax and duty regimes have been the biggest impediment in the success of wine in India. But to think that once, if ever, these are liberalised the wine industry will see the dawn of a stupendous growth period, is overly ambitious. Let’s face it, the wine culture we blatantly brag about is still limited to the creamy layer of the society generally within the confines of five star hotels and to some extent, wine clubs in big cities and as long as wine does not have a wider reach, we cannot expect to be in the league of top wine performers.

Then there are obvious challenges in the form of limited number of credible wine training and education providers, absence of a robust retail sector and a general tendency to club wine with other alcoholic beverages and the associated stigmas attached to it. All of these have to be addressed to improve our standing in the world wine scene.

Big and premium is always better in restaurant wine lists: There is a general tendency in India to shower accolades on wine lists which contain hundreds of labels packed with high-end brands. The more Cru classé Bordeauxs, Grand & Premier Cru Burgundies, Cult Californians and Super Tuscans you have on a list, the more likely it is to be considered ‘Fabulous’ and ‘World-class’.

But in fact, an ideal wine list should be all about achieving the right balance of regions/appellations, grapes/blends, price points and compatibility with the restaurant’s menu, which in turn will allow the guests to make informed decisions without getting overwhelmed by the volume and prices. In short, a truly world-class wine menu should be a right mix of variety, balance, eloquence in its descriptions and matching the restaurant’s theme.

High mark-up in 5 star hotels is responsible for wine’s limited reach: Whilst this argument cannot be trashed altogether, it is unjustified to put the blame squarely on top hotels. 5 star F&B destinations normally cater to the wealthy lot of the society and most businesses are smart to price their products as per the spending capacity of their guests. Why should they lose out on revenues when those buying the wines are willing to pay the price? Also, it is misplaced to comprehend that those who cannot afford to dine in 5 star restaurants will start flocking these places once the wine prices are lowered. Apart from wine, the prices of every product and services in 5 star hotels are not affordable for the common man.

Wine does not go well with Indian food: This seems like a never-ending cliché. A time when new and unconventional practices are taking shape and food & wine pairing is bucking all the traditional trends, this age-old misconception needs to be looked at through a different prism.

Contrary to common belief, most Indian spices can be married with wine’s flavour components. The trick is to break down the dishes to the last spice so that the flavour characteristics become apparent. This knowledge is often enough to pair wines correctly although knowing the cooking process will also help in deciding the choice of wine – a smoky Kebab straight from the Tandoor will need a wine with some degree of matching smokiness to balance the overall profile. Lastly, the texture and body of the food should match the same in the wine.

The role of a Sommelier in India: This is by itself one of the biggest myths of our industry. ‘Sommelier’ in India is often an inappropriately overused and misconstrued designation alluded to anyone dealing with the beverage – be it a person simply pouring wine in a restaurant, so called a ‘Wine Taster’, anyone with any wine qualification irrespective of its relevance to a Sommelier’s profile or at times even a wine marketer.

In simple terms, a genuine Sommelier is a wine specialist who is capable of offering expert advice on a broad range of wine related topics. He should ideally also have a matching qualification to back-up his practical skills.

The great Indian obsession with the ‘Sommelier’

I often wonder why we Indians, especially in the media, hospitality and wine industry, are so obsessed with the word Sommelier. Whether it is a wine related analysis in a national newspaper, an article in a lifestyle magazine or myriad of profiles on social media and professional network websites, it seems to be omnipresent. Not that there is anything wrong with this obsession but the way it is frequently used is the contentious part.

With a few genuine exceptions, it is an inappropriately overused term which often overlooks the specialist nature of a Sommelier’s role in the contemporary wine and hospitality business. Why is this so?  Is it because it comes across as a ‘posh’ (as one of my friends recently suggested), in-vogue and highly saleable jargon or simply because its blatant and rampant use as a tool for self-branding has struck a positive note with the masses and media in large? In my view it is a mix of all these plus an easy way of influencing a young and nascent wine culture. The fact that it is a French word makes it more chic, probably!

Mind you, when used correctly and thoughtfully, the usage of the word Sommelier should only be reserved for wine professionals with requisite credentials and/or training. It shouldn’t be an honorary title but a professional designation. Also, one has to earn a Sommelier’s position, not just claim to be one. I have come across many instances where the concept of a Sommelier is awfully misrepresented – whether it is to describe anyone who conducts wine sampling sessions to even untrained F&B professionals in five-star hotels who pour wine on the table. Whilst they may not be able to perform any other tasks expected of a professional Sommelier, a capable Sommelier on the other hand will be able to carry out both the tasks effortlessly, in addition to all other specialized roles he/she is trained to do.

I have also recently come across another media speak used for describing Sommeliers, and once again it is not representative of a Sommelier’s complete profile.  I am referring to the term ‘Wine Taster’. Whilst tasting a wine to deduce information about it is just a part of  a Sommelier’s overall repertoire, it is amateurish (and misleading, to some extent) to use the term to portray professional Sommeliers.

So, who is a Sommelier?

First of all, a formal training is a must which can be acquired from professional Sommelier organisations like the  Court of Master Sommeliers. This is a vital differentiator which separates the wheat from the chaff. Engage in a serious wine talk with the wine guy during your next dinner out and you will know what I mean. A genuine Sommelier will be authoritative, confident and most importantly will be highly knowledgeable (but modest) about the world of wine and beverages.

Those who do not have a formal qualification can also be in the league of professional Sommeliers provided they have undergone an extensive training and mentorship program under a duly certified and experienced Sommelier,  and are directly responsible  for influencing the wine program of their hotel/restaurant.

Apart from the mandatory training and qualification, a professional Sommelier should also be able to skillfully perform the following:

• Offer expert wine advice and service to customers in a fine-dining environment
• Pair wine and food thoughtfully and ensuring perfect harmony between the two
• Conduct effective wine sampling and training sessions
• Create effective wine lists
• Conduct profitable wine promotions
• Be at ease with inventory management, wine storage requirements and cellaring techniques
• Be efficient in costing, forecasting and ordering and other beverage control specifications
• Be abreast with the latest trends in the wine industry, especially vintage conditions in different parts of the wine world
• Be adequately informed about other beverages and cigars (if it is a part of the establishment’s offerings)

I am often referred to as a Sommelier and as much as I like to be called one, I have to be honest in admitting that there are occasions when I feel more comfortable to be known simply as a wine professional. This at least ensures that I do not fall into the category of media created and self-proclaimed Sommeliers.

Cheers,

Niladri

Of ‘Gru-Vee’, blissful Indian cuisine and a unique marriage

I wrote this article a while ago for an Indian wine website but realized that somebody had worked overtime to write on the same subject. So, unsurprisingly, it ends up here…a forum for my wine rants .

Official menu for the event

Who could have ever thought that the cliché ‘Indian food does not go well with wine’, which was once widespread in the country, would be completely thrown out of the window in recent times? Not that the purists are willing to let go this apprehension, but not only are they in the minority now, the entire approach to Indian food and wine pairing is also experiencing a paradigm shift.

Nowhere else typical north Indian food is celebrated with as much pomp and passion as in ITC Hotels. This shouldn’t come as a surprise as the hotel chain has over the years represented the very best that Indian cuisine has to offer, and the worthy torchbearers of this distinction deservedly go to two of its branded restaurants – Dum Pukht and Bukhara / Peshawri. The nature of cuisine in both could be, interestingly enough, quite wine friendly too if one is able to split the dishes right down the middle and understand the flavour and sensory components in play. This decoding of the spice combination and cooking method along with appreciating the wine’s characteristics is the key in wine and food pairing in these restaurants. Once this technique is mastered, the combination works wonders.

One such ‘marriage’ was recently solemnised in Dum Pukht at ITC Maurya at the initiative of Sommelier India wine magazine. The actual wine pairing was arguably the most audacious attempt in my wine adventures so far!

Attended by the Austrian ambassador and his wife along with some of the most notable faces from the media, the dual idea behind the event was not only to showcase the diversity of Austrian wines but also to make a strong statement regarding the ability of classic Indian cuisine to partner with a varied and even idiosyncratic range of wines. Needless to say there was a lot of anticipation surrounding this dinner. The build-up to the event was highlighted by the actual pairing of an eleven-course menu with 22 of the choicest Austrian wines representing some of the most highly-regarded wine producers from across the country’s wine landscape. They ranged from light and austere Weissburgunders (Pinot Blanc) to the funky and extremely expressive Gruner Veltliners and unique blends of red grape varieties.

The tone for the extensive meal was set by the sampling of two light aromatic varieties as aperitifs –Welschriesling (no relation to the more famous Riesling) and Muskat (Muscat), both belonging to the Burgenland region. The latter, although on the sweeter side, was particularly talked about due to its easy going, jasmine like floral characters combined with a tingling acidity and a hint of minerals.

A selection of Dum Pukht’s signature kebabs kicked-off the meal, each paired with two different wines, carefully chosen to let the delicate spice components in these delicacies to shine through. Whilst   the soft-textured Paneer in Dudhiya Kebab and the succulent Murgh Chandi Tikka were duly complimented by the two typical citrus toned and mineral laden Rieslings from NiederOsterriech (Lower Austria), the leafy and refreshing Sauvignon Blanc from Burgenland mingled well with the overall profile of the Paneer. But as expected, the Kakori Kebab and the two wines paired with it attracted the most attention. The sweet spices, protein in the finely minced lamb and the pate like texture of the smoky kebab were the main elements and surprisingly the Gruner Veltliner from Weinviertel was the preferred wine (over a Zweigelt from) owing to its overall bold and expressive fruit structure, impressive body and a seductive acid profile.

The main course was a long drawn affair involving some of the most renowned Dum Pukht items like Raan-e-Dumpukht, Murgh Khushk Purdah and Shahi Nehari, among others. It was once again Austria’s national grape variety ‘Gru-vee’ – a funky slang for Gruner Veltliner, which came up trumps among the wines as partners of these dishes. A typical peppery spice along with a melange of soft stone fruits (apricots and nectarine, mainly), subtle layers of stony minerality and nicely integrated acid ensured that they balanced the exotic Indian spices all along. There were four of these wines representing The Chardonnay (known as Morillon in Austria) with its mandarin and blossom dominated aromas.

Among the red wines, an unusual blend of Zweigelt, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot stole the show. The traditional black fruit dominated aromas of a Cab/Merlot blend were given an extra edge by the earthiness and sour cherry like aromas of the Zweigelt.

A fitting finale to the dinner came in the form of two mouth-watering desserts – Shahi Tukra and Shahad-e-jam. A luscious Trockenbeerenauslese (a dessert wine of the highest quality and sweetness level) made up of Gruner Veltliner from the Kamptal region was the perfect partner with its caramelised honey, marmalade and orange candy flavours adding to the overall experience of the meal.

In the end, it really sounded like ‘getting ‘Gru-Vee’ – the Indian way’!

Cheers,

Niladri