Political correctness – is the wine world setting a (negative) trend?

As part of an annual ritual, I was taking stock of the year gone by, in terms of the wine media’s role in highlighting issues which impact the larger wine community. While there was no dearth of regular ‘hot topics’ (the En Primeur campaign, effect of global warming on the wine industry, acquisitions and dumping of brands, et al.), it was probably the Asian (read Chinese) juggernaut which created the most storm. But amidst all these, one story particularly stood out in terms of underscoring the rampant political correctness which exists in various quarters of the wine world, mainly dwelled by self-proclaimed custodians of standard wine industry ‘rules’.

I am referring to the thought-provoking findings of Tim Hanni MW, published late last year, regarding the taste preferences of majority of common wine consumers. In a nutshell, the study busted the popular myth that people with liking for drier (and intense) style of wines have more evolved and refined palate than those who prefer a degree of sweetness in their liquid. To make matters even more unpalatable for the ‘PC brigade’, it also suggested that ‘distinct physiological differences in human sensory anatomy indicates that the people with the greatest taste sensitivity may well indeed be White Zinfandel drinkers and not the consumers of highly rated, intense red wines’. You can find all about the story here.

Is the wine world too stuffy with clichés and stereotypes? Are ideas and thoughts only ‘innovative’ and ‘groundbreaking’ if they tow the conventional beliefs? Is the wine intelligentsia too obsessed with set conventions? And most importantly, do these set beliefs negatively impact wine consumer’s choices and drinking behaviours?

Those (including me, of course) who feel that wine should be enjoyed on one’s own terms, will equivocally reply in the affirmative to the above, whereas they might simply be preposterous to many on the other side of the spectrum.

Although Hanni’s revelations were by no means representative of the larger wine world’s preferences, it did throw up some interesting facts which cannot be discounted or dismissed. But that is exactly what emerged out of some of the reactions which followed the publication of the study. One that stood out for me was a discussion on the Purple Pages forum. The gentleman who started the thread on this topic, termed him a ‘publicity-seeking loon’ and a ‘charlatan and mad’. Although the Queen of Wine rightly rebutted these statements subsequently, it did leave a bitter taste in the mouth and proved the point that extreme political correctness is indeed existent and has its roots in a system too rigid to encourage emancipation in wine enjoyment.

Talking of personal experiences; one of my earlier posts on Champagne generated sharp reactions on a professional networking forum, merely because it suggested that Champagne is an overrated wine (a belief I still firmly hold, albeit with exceptions). Too offbeat and scandalous a thought perhaps!!

Another incident which springs to mind was during a corporate dinner, where, as the sommelier, I recommended a full-bodied Grenache-dominated blend from southern Rhone with a spicy Indian seekh kebab. I was convinced that this was a great match as the intensity of this wine married well with the spices and neither the food nor the wine dominated each other. But the cliché that ‘Indian-food-goes-well-with-Gewurztraminer’ was so strong that the majority in the room were too apprehensive to give it a try. So they decided to stick to the Gewurz. A couple of months later I received an email from one of the attendees praising my recommendation, which she tried in an up-market restaurant while travelling as a tourist in India. The mail was CCd to most who attended that dinner…Deja vu!

The wine world has come a long way since the days when archaic rules, such as ‘white wine with white meat’, dictated wine drinking habits. Many schools of thought, endorsing various ways of enjoying wine, have since evolved, which are helping enthusiasts to make informed choices, and all this bodes very well for the wine industry. Let’s hope this trend continues and political correctness prevails.

Cheers,

Niladri

Demystifying the palate war

Ever wondered what separates the Americans from the Europeans (especially the British), apart from their accents, the ways of spelling English words and of course, the Atlantic Ocean? It’s their palate; for wine. If you are not already familiar with this (somewhat hush-hush) reality, it may come across as bizarre and even amusing. The fact that a wine’s taste, and hence quality, can be perceived so differently among two demographics, makes this a gripping topic to analyse. This post is an attempt to do exactly that without sounding blatantly dramatic and based on a well-reasoned and informed assumption that such a division does exist in the wine world.

So, what is the basis of this whole debate about American palate vs. European/British palate? Is it just a media created hype or is there real substance to this differentiation? Does an element of  ‘wineupmanship’, so often witnessed in the wine world, accentuate this rift? If the division is for real, how glaring are the difference of opinions?

Questions like these have provided plenty of food for thought to wine commentators since this phenomenon appeared on the world stage, most noticeably in the form of a very public spat between two of the world’s most prolific tasters and highly regarded wine critics, Robert Parker Jr. and Jancis Robinson. The wine in question was the 2003 Chateau Pavie from Saint-Emilion, a super-ripe, rich, concentrated and fruit-forward example which defied the very essence of a classic, quintessential Bordeaux – elegant, food-friendly wines known for their balance (between acidity, sugar, tannin and alcohol) and ability to age for a long period of time. Parker, the American, showered high praises on the wine during his routine En Primeur tastings whereas Robinson, a British, dismissed it as an “unappetising and ridiculous” wine. What followed was a clear emergence of style preference of the two camps and an all too visible polarisation, not only within the expert/critic community but also in the way wines were produced in many traditional wine-growing regions around the world.

Although many in the wine industry have dismissed it as nothing more than a mere ‘storm in a wine glass’, it will be unrealistic not to accept the fact that there are indeed two schools of thought when it comes to tagging a wine based on its taste profile. Simply stated, most Americans tend to prefer wines with vibrant fruit falvours, softer tannins, lower acidity, comparatively higher alcohol and an overall richer concentration. This preference could be related to the general California styles where growing conditions more or less favour more exuberant wines.

The British, on the other hand, have often inclined towards more traditional and classic Old World style of wines where the catch word is ‘balance’. Anything over the top and the Brits are the first to press the alarm button, which is not surprising as wine drinking in the country has always been very Europe-centric, where wine styles tend to be rather restrained albeit complex and classy with an expression of the place they belong to (terroir, in other words). This, by no means suggests that terroir has no role in American wines…in addition to the overall growing conditions, winery operations in the USA (like many other New World producers) have a big role to play in deciding the final outcome.

Now, that brings us to the crux of the matter – why so much fuss about how people choose to enjoy their wine? In my view, there are two possible explanations for this. The first and foremost relates to economics. What sounds like a trivial issue relating to perceptions of taste would not have mattered much if it did not have a profound effect on the global wine business, especially at the top, ultra-premium level. One has to simply look at the transformation of the Bordeaux Right Bank (St. Emilion & Pomerol, mainly) to understand this theory. Robert Parker’s tremendous influence on wine prices has resulted in the adoption of an almost signature style by the majority of this part of Bordeaux. No wonder that some of the wines from this region (the likes of Le Pin, Lafleur, Valandraud et al) consistently demand higher prices than most of their more illustrious Left Bank counterparts. This certainly defies logic if one still considers the 1855 Classification as the benchmark for quality and price (not many people do…aren’t we in the 21st century now?).

The second, and probably more of a subjective issue seems to be that both the sides feel that by letting the rivals have the last word, their own wine identities could be at stake. Looks like the custodians of each of these identities have decided not to let the other dictate how their followers want to enjoy drinking wine. After all, it is a known fact that influencing evolving wine taste buds does not take a huge effort.

Although a comparatively recent discord within the larger wine world, the entire palate debate has definitely added punch to the already heady mix of opinions and the more the industry evolves the more this matter is likely to gain attention. We may have just seen the beginning!

Cheers,

Niladri

WikiLeaks busts major fake wine racket in Asia

Okay you guessed it right, nothing as dramatic has happened (as yet)…the headline is just a figment of my imagination, in fact a blatant attention-grabbing stunt! But just imagine waking up one fine morning to a similar breaking news . Would you be surprised? Read on…

Although this is an apolitical blog dedicated to wine (and only wine), I could not think of any other appropriate title to discuss the growing menace of fakery in the wine world. This, admittedly tongue-in-cheek approach with an intended pun, is also keeping in line with the latest buzz surrounding WikiLeaks, the online whistle-blower and the current undisputed star in investigative journalism.

Fraudulent practices in the wine industry is not a new phenomenon. In fact they are going on for centuries in some form or the other but thanks to the ever-vigilant media (aided by a collection of hyper-viral social media), these incidents have become increasingly overt in present times.There have been numerous revelations in the recent past including the infamous Red Bycyclette incident, the unearthing of a major Italian fake wine syndicate and the high-profile case involving the American billionaire William Koch and the auction house Christie’s, to name a few.

With the rapid globalization of wine and the corresponding popularity of the beverage in new and emerging markets, the risks involving possible malpractices have also increased significantly. The interesting point to consider is that fakery in the industry is not only limited to fine wines anymore and that is what makes this issue more complex and widespread. But nowhere the menace of new-age counterfeit wines is more striking than in China. According to one report quoting a Chinese government agency survey a few years back, more than 70% of imported wine sold in restaurants and hotels in the country’s major cities is fake. It also claims that the process may simply involve filling up bottles with cheap local wines and labeling them as though they are imported! More recently, this trend has also been substantiated by a slew of exposés across the world wine media. There are too many to list in this post – here is one, for example.

Now this brings us to the crux of the matter; what if this burgeoning wine market becomes a real victim of the multi-billion dollar organized Chinese fake goods industry? One does not need a great deal of imagination to understand the possible repercussions. According to Vinexpo, the country will become the seventh largest wine consumer by 2013, a staggering  32% increase compared to 2009. This equates to roughly 1.25 billion bottles. As the demand for imported wines keep on growing, a large chunk of this number will undoubtedly be the well-known names from conventional markets as well as the New World countries. If the present scale of counterfeiting goes unchecked it will surely prove to be a huge setback for the industry as it looks east in its quest to explore alternatives to the more or less stagnant western markets. Instead of being the driving force, as it has come to be known as, the Chinese may end up setting a bad precedent for other emerging wine economies too in addition to causing a big dent in the overall market sentiments.

Here’s a quick snapshot of everything discussed above (see the image on the left). Mind you there is nothing clandestine about this example which raises the question that if such (funny?) counterfeiting is taking place in the open, what might be transpiring ‘behind the scenes’?

Note the brand name: ‘Bordux Carstel‘ which sounds like a corruption of ‘Bordeaux Castle’ (Castle happens to be the english translation of Chateau!). A quick search of this name on Google only brings up Chinese results…..surprised?

The image of the Chateau itself resembles one of the Classed Growths.

Note the grape variety: ‘Syrah’. In Bordeaux? Unless the AOC rules have made special provision keeping in mind the Chinese market!

Note the appellation: ‘Grand Vin de Bordeaux’. Very prominent.

Note the real appellation at the bottom: A VDP from Southern France. In small fonts.

Apart from such apparent labeling manipulations, a recent trend of using translated names of well-known brands has also come in light. The phonetic translation for Lafite becomes ‘Luxurious’, for example! An ingenious approach indeed, to add extra value to an already iconic name.

China, with Hong Kong as its flag-bearer, provides an enormous opportunity to the world wine business and will continue to be a lucrative destination in the future, although the country’s notoriety in faking everything commercially popular may prove to be its biggest stumbling block in the long run. A collective effort involving consumer awareness and education may ultimately prove to be the most potent weapon to fight this menace. Needless to say, there are also lessons to be learnt for other up-and-coming markets like India.

Cheers

Niladri

Quality Wine Education – key to success in unconventional markets

Vinexpo Hong Kong, the Asia-Pacific version of the parent event in Bordeaux and one of the most important annual fixtures of the international wine calendar, concluded recently with much fanfare and a bullish outlook for the region’s wine business. The grand occasion not only lived up to all the hype and expectations, it also reinforced Hong Kong’s stature as the world’s most desired wine destination.

In addition to the usual business protocols and showcases, this year’s event also highlighted the significance of wine education to succeed in new but hugely promising markets like China. The key message; consumer awareness along with a well-informed industry workforce is vital in developing and maintaining a robust wine economy. Here is the coverage of the news article on decanter.com.

Although the news dealt with the importance of wine education in mainland China, considering the enormous prospects it has to offer to the wine businesses world over, the core message is universal and holds equally true for a country like India where wine is increasingly making a headway as part of the urban lifestyle.

So, what are the options available for individuals (and businesses alike, for their employees) seeking to acquire/enhance their wine knowledge? Whether one is contemplating a serious career in the wine industry, the trade looking for well-structured courses to educate their staff or you are simply smitten by the charm of wine and want to demystify the intricacies related to its production and enjoyment, there are numerous options out there awaiting to be explored. Among these, there are only a few selected and trusted ones which offer the most innovative and world-class courses and provide the most comprehensive wine education. I have listed them below.

Please note that courses related to wine production (Wine-making & Viticulture) do not feature in the following list as their focus is markedly different from general wine education.

■ Wine & Spirit Education Trust – WSET, as it is commonly known, is by far the most reliable and effective wine education provider in the world. Recognised the world over for the quality and depth of the courses, it has to be the numero uno of all the dedicated wine education providers. The enormous demand for its certifications means that the WSET is also the fastest growing wine educator outside its original home, the United Kingdom. A rigorous selection process of the APPs (Approved Programme Providers) and a centralized examination control (in London) also make these courses very trustworthy.

The Systematic Approach to Tasting (SAT) wine, developed by WSET is also one of its indisputable USPs which has set a benchmark for many other courses around the world.

The four levels (plus an additional case study, the Level 5 Honours Diploma), each with their distinct theory and practical tasting papers, cater to the needs of different skill levels of the industry. The Level 4 Diploma is a challenging but enlightening two years’ expedition which covers all the wine regions of the world with an additional focus on the commercial and business side of wine-growing plus testing an individual’s ability to correctly identify wines after tasting them blind. The Diploma  is considered to be a vital stepping stone towards the holy grail of all wine qualifications; the Master of Wine (MW).

■ Court of Master Sommeliers – The CMS is a very highly regarded organisation offering wine courses at various levels like the WSET but with a strong focus on the beverage service sector, more precisely to groom professional sommeliers. It’s highest certification leads to the coveted designation of ‘Master Sommelier (MS)’. There are only 170 (till date) of these top wine professionals in the world and majority of them are responsible for running some of the most successful and critically acclaimed wine programs, not only in the hospitality industry but also in the wider wine trade.

■ Society of Wine Educators – Although not yet as internationally recognised as the previous two, the SWE deserves a mention solely based on the quality and clear-cut purpose of its three-tier wine certification program. These are; ‘Certified specialist of Wine (CSW)’, ‘Certified Wine Educator (CWE)’ and ‘Certified Specialist of Spirits (CSS)’.

■ Wine MBA from the Bordeaux Management School – A one of its kind MBA program designed for wine professionals aspiring to take the next big step in the world wine trade. This unique course is structured keeping in mind the dynamics of the present day global wine business. Students have the choice of pursuing this option from any of the four strategic locations – Bordeaux, Adelaide, London or the UC Davis campus in California.

■ Courses run by wine experts – A lot of individuals offer different levels of wine courses which can help you get a head start in the industry or enhance your wine appreciation capabilities. Most of them will either hold a wine educator’s certificate from a recognised institute (like the WSET) or should be adequately trained/qualified to be able to be both authoritative and informative in their teachings. In countries like the UK, USA and New Zealand, many such courses are run by Masters of Wine or Master Sommeliers.

■ Others - There are a number of other options which can be explored as means of laying a foundation for wine knowledge. Most cosmopolitan societies nowadays boast of institutes offering wine courses of various sizes and affiliations. These range from customized courses based on particular requirements like training restaurant/bar staff to laid back and fun events.

There are a myriad of factors that play crucial roles in creating and developing a healthy wine culture in an untraditional market, among which, quality education is probably the most key ingredient that helps in sustaining its popularity and commercial success. Therefore it is in the larger interest of a country’s wine industry to recognise this fact and assign it the pivotal role in all attempts to promote the beautiful beverage.

Cheers,

Niladri

Wine snobbery – separating myths from facts

‘Wine snobbery’ is perhaps the most negative and often a loosely used term to denote actions related to appreciation and enjoyment of the beverage, along with the verbal and written expressions about the subject.  Its usage has always been a sort of cliché in the wine world although a fair analysis will reveal that there is indeed a thin line between humility and ostentatiousness when it comes to displaying one’s wine knowledge. How you navigate this thin line will decide whether you belong to the ‘wine snobs’ club.

Wine is a highly specialized subject and those in the knowledge of the technicalities surrounding its production and appreciation often tend to express themselves in a way that may sound like unnecessary show-off to most who consider it to be just a fermented byproduct of grape juice. Nothing wrong with that but on the other hand, it is common to come across  numerous instances of apparent ‘scholarly sounding’ practices, either in written wine literature or physical actions, which smack of snobbishness and in rare occasions, arrogance. A good example would be the highly intimidating and sometimes almost unfathomable tasting notes found in many wine dedicated magazines and websites. Here is an older post on a similar topic.

So, who is an actual wine snob? To understand the psyche that makes such a person, we must first highlight and eliminate a few myths:

■ Myth number 1:  ”Every wine qualified person is a snob to some extent” – This is simply a gross generalization, something like saying that everyone who visits a casino is a compulsive gambler. The wine world is brimming with extremely highly qualified and genuine wine experts who are also the most humble ambassadors of their respective areas of expertise.

■ Myth number 2: A perception that wine snobs belong to the well-heeled section of the society – Money or wealth has nothing to do with pretentious wine behaviour. Drinking expensive wines is a part of the lifestyle of people who can afford it. Even a supermarket wine can be a subject of snobbishness.

■ Myth number 3: “Wine snobbery is a way to stamp one’s authority” – Ridiculous! On the contrary, whoever takes this approach to ‘get noticed and valued’ is limited by their reach and influence. Stalwarts like Jancis Robinson and Michael Broadbent would not have reached their coveted position if the larger wine world believed that their thoughts reflected any form of snobbery.

■ Myth number 4: “Using technical wine terms and heavy jargons in conversations and writings amounts to snobbery” – This is only but partially true. Most conscientious speakers and writers will firstly identify their target audience and accordingly adjust their language. For instance, if the audience is not so wine savvy, they will make sure that their message strikes chord with everyone through elaboration and relevant examples. 

Now, let us turn our attention to the crux of the matter, i.e. the traits (or more appropriately, ill-traits) that define a wine snob:

• Anyone who talks down to others on wine related matters without bothering to take on board any other perspectives.
• Anyone highly opinionated on contentious wine issues where the topic in question may have many credible arguments.
• Anyone who lectures others into submission by deliberately using terms and phrases which can otherwise be described in simple language.
• Anyone who dismisses a ‘not so expensive’ bottle of wine as ‘plonk’.
• Anyone who claims to have the nose and palate for only fine wines.
• Anyone who demands to sniff a cork after a bottle is opened only to reject it as spoilt without even bothering to smell or taste it.
• Anyone who pretends to be a master of the subject (even Masters of Wine cannot afford to be under that illusion!).

Wine snobbery is not the natural state of a wine lover, rather a perceived notion that has inherently accompanied the rituals of appreciation and expression of the beverage. Hopefully the myths and facts outlined above will help to reinforce this argument.

Cheers,

Niladri

Champagne – overrated & overpriced?

If there is one wine in the world that has benefited most from its single regional/appellation title, it has to be undoubtedly Champagne. It is also probably the most recognizable brand in the wine world and certainly one which epitomizes luxury and celebration. Whether it is a Bond movie, a sporting triumph, best exemplified by Formula One Grand Prix events, a beverage to  usher in special moments like new year, celebrating anniversaries and birthdays or even  launching of ships, Champagne is intimately connected with the spirit of celebration and is a traditional symbol of luxury. Its lofty status can largely be attributed to the smart marketing by a consortium of influential producers who have successfully managed to associate the drink with luxury and style. This initiative which started in 19th century, still remains the cornerstone of the product’s success.

But apart from a traditional glory, does Champagne deserve all the hype and most importantly the stratospheric prices that a lot of them demand? A question which may be considered almost a blasphemy in the larger wine world where any such ‘unconventional’ opinion is frowned upon, more so when the wine in question is the ‘iconic’ Champagne.

There is no denying that Champagne offers the best representation of a style of wine that is much imitated the world over and is savoured for this unique style but is that reason enough to justify the prices and often compulsive overrating? Let’s try to reason this argument using three basic facts:

■ Regional characteristics – The northerly latitude of Champagne and its limestone rich soil are the main features of the region’s grape growing conditions but unlike other appellations, like the top ones from Burgundy or Germany for example, where the ‘great’ wines come from individual vineyard sites (monopole/einzellage), the Champagne areas are divided as villages/communes with the best ones recognized as Grand Crus. Does this mean that the terroir across the village/region is homogeneous and therefore grapes grown anywhere in this large tract of land is suitable for Champagne production? Although it defies the quintessential logic behind exceptional terroirs, Champagne is somewhat different to this concept as it is essentially a blended wine, either of different vintages (with the exception of vintage Champagnes) or from different parts of the region. But in effect, it does prove the point that these broad regional characteristics cannot be factored in terms of aligning superior terroir to the quality of the wine.

■ Profile - Champagne is one of the very few wines whose overall profile is not only influenced by the fruit (primary aromas) but also to a large extent by the period of contact with the lees after the secondary fermentation which imparts the autolytic characters (secondary aromas).  This is thought to be a prized characteristic prompting many producers to introduce late disgorged variants. It cannot be disputed that a combination of fruit and a well-integrated autolytic character does add to the complexity of the wine and is the hallmark of the best wines but a lot of the top Champagnes (not all by any means) are simply too yeasty giving them a rather unidimensional flavour profile. This is more evident in wines made from Chardonnay only (Blanc de Blancs) due to it’s rather neutral character. I have come across many tasting notes where the so called complexity is highly exaggerated when it is clearly evident that the autolysis notes are the most predominant.

■ Price - This has to be the most significant factor which makes Champagne a candidate for being an overrated, and hence overpriced, wine. Over the years, many different styles of Champagne have evolved and with each new ‘avatar’ came a price tag that catapulted it to a higher category. Bizarre it may seem, but in reality, it is the only wine which, in essence, defies the QPR (Quality-Price Ratio) theory. Take Prestige/Deluxe Cuvees for instance. These ‘crown jewels’ of many Champagne producers are sold for astronomical rates. Nothing seems wrong with that as top wines always command higher prices but try and find a rosé version of the same wine and you will realize the vagaries of Champagne pricing. A quick look at Wine-Searcher.com reveals that the average retail prices for a bottle of the pink versions of two of the most famous of these wines are almost double the amount as compared to the regular styles (Louis Roederer Cristal – $599 Vs. $308 and Moët & Chandon Dom Perignon – $416 Vs. $215). How can this vast gap be explained, considering that there is no significant difference, either in quality or wine-making procedures, between these two styles? Probably the colour makes the rosé more prestigious!

Many believe that Champagne’s inflated price is due to the high production costs. This is only partially true as a lot of these justifications do not often present a broader perspective vis-à-vis the expensive wine-making techniques related to many other fine wines, like the use of new oak (which is still rare in Champagne). Apart from a few notable exceptions, it is also not generally an investment grade wine as the delicate nature calls for extreme care in cellaring and temperature control, which, if lacking, can seriously alter the wine’s quality for worse.

Let me conclude with a reiteration that Champagne, in spite of the price, is and will continue to be one of the most sought after wines. A continued surge in demand, demonstrated by the recent expansion of the region, speaks volume of  its popularity. Its uniqueness, strongly backed up by an image of sophistication and style, is its trump card and as long the hype surrounding its stature continues, Champagne will keep on enjoying its coveted position in the wine world. Any attempts to brand it as overrated and overpriced will only be considered as rare idiosyncrasies!

Cheers,

Niladri

A dynamic approach

A recent news article that appeared in the BBC News Magazine has rekindled a debate over the efficacies of Biodynamic viticulture vis-à-vis the conventional ways of growing vines. Although the original news article only dealt with a part of Rudolf Steiner’s epic concept, the matter has since snowballed into a major talking point involving the entire subject. The wine media including Jancis Robinson’s forum has also chimed in.

The idea of this post is not to argue for or against the ‘effect of lunar cycles on the taste of wine‘ but to share some limited but valuable experience about biodynamics and its implications on the health of the vine. Of course, the jury is still out on the effects of this practice on the quality of wines and even the die hard biodynamic practitioner would agree that there are very few scientific pointers available to prove that a particular wine is superior simply because the grapes were grown following Steiner’s principles. But isn’t it fair to assume that a wine is more likely to be better because the fruits came from a healthy vine? Probably too simplistic for a purist’s liking but certainly not an argument that defies logic. Here’s how Jancis Robinson puts it in one of her older articles in Financial Times – “In general, barring some biodynamic practitioners who just don’t seem very competent winemakers, wines made from biodynamically grown grapes do taste more intense, more energetic and more interesting than similar wines grown conventionally.“

I was formally introduced to biodynamics as a student of winemaking and viticulture by the charismatic James  Millton, a pioneer and a staunch preacher of this form of grape growing. Being an immensely inspirational individual, James was always willing to share his vast knowledge and passion for the subject. His welcoming nature meant that we (students of the wine course) found easy access to his estate in pristine Gisborne on New Zealand’s east coast. Apart from the chic cellardoor and a lovely picnic spot, what attracts many wine lovers to the Millton Vineyards each year (and presumably other commited biodynamic vineyards) is the natural surroundings, especially the neat rows of vines that James and team has reared for twenty five years. Brilliant shiny leaves, unblemished cordons and trunks, colourful cover crops between vine rows, the occasional rose bushes, variety of fauna co-existing together, the distinctly earthy smell of  compost, fascinating references of unconventional farming practices……..all that contributes to a  wine tourist’s delight. Compare this with a run-of-the-mill conventional vineyard which ‘feeds and treats’ its inhabitants with chemicals. No rewards for guessing which environment the vines prefer!

A striking feature of these winegrowers is their affinity to the land which also partly explains their passion for biodynamics. For them, wine is made in the vineyard. The soil is what they worship and the results often transcend to the bottle.

Devout followers of biodynamics include names like Château Pontet-Canet, Jean Grivot, Zind Humbrecht, Pingus, Araujo Estate and Michel Chapoutier among many others. As the saying goes, the proof is in the pudding. Why would such revered names follow a so called irrational and unscientific approach if it was not for the overall quality of the final product?

Here is an YouTube video of James Millton talking about Biodynamic wine-growing:

Cheers,

Niladri

Being ‘Savvy’, but at what cost?

‘Sav’, ‘Sav Blanc’, ‘Savvy’ or plain Sauvignon Blanc, call it whatever you like, such is the popularity of the Kiwi version of this wine globally that it is seriously vying for a place alongside other New Zealand national symbols/icons like the All Blacks, the Haka, the Silver Fern, the kiwifruit, the kiwi bird, the Beehive and Pavlova among many others. Wholehearted endorsements from well known wine critics over the years have further boosted its stature. According to the official website representing the Kiwi wine industry, the grape variety accounted for 60% of the total harvest in 2008. The meteoric rise in demand of the style (Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc to be precise) has also resulted in frantic expansion of vineyards and resultant increment in production to an extent where the industry insiders have started voicing concerns over possible risks of quantity eventually taking over quality. This sentiment recently surfaced from the very heart of the wine-growing region itself.

No doubt it has brought vinous glory to the country and certainly fuels the wine economy which is aiming at the billion dollar mark by 2010, but any fair minded wine-lover who has interest in Kiwi wines will wonder whether this obsession with Sauvignon Blanc is justified in terms of the versatility of the wines that the country is able to produce. It’s not only the logarithmic growth in production but the potential of other wine regions and grape varieties that should also be a point of discussion. And there is always the fear that a commercialisation of this magnitude may overshadow the artisan nature of wine-growing that a large number of labels in New Zealand have come to represent.

The only other country that comes close to this unidirectional approach is Germany where Riesling rules but New Zealand is not constrained by a lot of climatic factors that puts Germany on the viticultural limits. In wine-growing terms, the country is quite diverse with the regions scattered between latitudes 36° north to 45° south, the northern hemisphere equivalent of southern Spain to Bordeaux. Favourable growing conditions, well defined seasons and infrequent vintage variations make grape growing a natural choice. These include names as obscure as Arneis and Zweigelt to all the major international varieties. Whether it is the Bordeaux style reds and Syrahs of great concentration and structure from Hawkes Bay, exquisitely fruity and powerful Pinots Noirs from Martinborough and Central Otago, elegant Chardonnays from Gisborne, range of varietals from Nelson or an interesting array of aromatics and sparkling wines from selected pockets, New Zealand has a lot more to offer than just Sauvignon Blanc. Then there are a number of intensely passionate producers spread across the length and breadth of the country who have given a new meaning to phrases like ‘handcrafted wines’ and ‘sustainable viticulture’ and are not part of the S/Blanc bandwagon.

Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc has reached extraordinary heights in a relatively short span of time and is considered one of the the benchmarks in its category but it is in the long term interest of the New Zealand wine industry to equally promote the other gems in its coffers or as the Kiwis like to say…….give the other highly deserving wines a fair go too. Anyone ‘Savvy’ out there who feels differently?

Cheers,

Niladri

Terroir – Marketing gimmick or a proven concept?

I recently came across this news article on Decanter.com that dealt with a scientific discovery claiming to be able to track a wine’s origin based on it’s chemical composition. It rekindled my interest in a subject that has attracted a lot of attention (somewhat controversially) over the years and is perhaps one of the most researched subject within the industry.

Having learnt the basic science behind wine-growing as a student of Viticulture and Wine-making not so long ago,  it is not extremely difficult for me to appreciate the relationship of a wine’s quality to its place of birth. Since there is no specific English word for this concept, I have to relate this phenomenon to the rather parochial (or snobbish?) French term ‘Terroir’ - a word that the ‘New World’ often considers another way to stamp French hegemony on the wine world.

So, is terroir simply a marketing gimmick? Is it just a way to sell Grand Crus and Premier Crus? Well, my two cents, the very essence and relevance of the word goes much beyond a simple business tool. The fact that the French have effectively managed to exploit the idea to promote their ‘prestigious’ wines and estates should not diminish the significance of the term per se and how everything intrinsically entwined to it affects the quality of wines. After all wine is a reflection of the place where it is grown although many in the New World also relate this to the skill of the wine-maker and the myriad of options available during the wine-making process. One of these is the use of specially cultured strains of yeast that impart desirable flavours and aromas to the wine – like replicating the armpit and sweaty characters of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc! Does this approach justify wine’s natural identity? No doubt vinification techniques play a vital role but a vineyard’s potential will always remain paramount and unquestionable in wine-growing.

Nowadays huge investments are made on vineyard site selection and establishment in which the New world has taken the lead as they often lack the traditional geographical knowledge of vineyard sites unlike their counterparts in the Old World.  These include soil mapping using the  latest state of  the art technology, gathering historical climatic data, selecting the right root-stocks and clones of vines, trellis design and so on. All these are practically carried out to ensure optimum growing conditions which in turn are at the heart of the concept of terroir. So, in effect it is a well recognised phenomenon although a classic case of ‘New world vs. Old world’ rivalry prevents the term being wholeheartedly accepted.

Depending upon one’s viewpoint, terroir may be considered as a shrewd marketing tool or an idea that relates to a wine’s quality. Unless the English speaking world comes up with a similar and extremely valid term, it will continue to find favour in wine literature and media.

Cheers,

Niladri

Wine Language – Let’s Keep it Simple

There’s been much debate in the wine world surrounding the effect of modern wine language, both formal and colloquial, on the changing attitudes towards wine appreciation.  Nowhere this evolution is more vivid and evident than the tasting notes posted on various websites and blogs. This article only relates to the tasting notes that I believe are too complicated and are solely aimed at a reasonably highly knowledgeable segment.

But what about a place like India where  wine is still a very rudimentary subject? Naturally the level of technical knowledge is also limited. So, it is only logical to keep things at a level where people feel comfortable talking about it. No wonder there’s been numerous attempts to bring this issue to light. In fact I wrote the following article in response to a blog post which suggested finding new flavour profiles in wines so that people from these places can relate to them.

A time when ‘unconventional’ markets are increasingly embracing the ‘wine culture’, an argument towards a simplified and adaptable wine-tasting regime carries a lot of weight. An approach which recognises that wine is for enjoying and not something to get daunted or overwhelmed about. This is exactly how I felt when I first started taking interest in wine. Although nothing was thrust upon me but I found this scholarly fuss about describing characters of some wines (read: complicated tasting notes) highly intimidating. I probably should have realized that they were not meant for novices!

One reason, and the most important one for that matter, why most wine jargon intrigued me those days is because I came from a society that simply is not used to relating a wide range of flavour profiles (and descriptors in particular) to any beverage. Ask an average Indian about the most ‘complex’ and flavourful beverage he/she ever had, the chances are that the verdict will be split between ‘Masala Chai’ (tea infused with Indian spices) and ‘Bhang’ (a heady concoction of milk, nuts, spices and herbs drunk for euphoria/ecstasy)!!

On a more serious note, the modern day wine language has evolved over time and is a result of lot of research – the Aroma Wheel and Mouth feel Wheel for example. It would be audacious to think that these resources can be easily altered or substituted. The actual flavour profile of a grape variety (and hence the wine) is universal and is most likely to reflect that irrespective of terroir. A ripe Cabernet Sauvignon tastes of Blackcurrants and in my view is the perfect way to describe the grape but can we substitute this with an Indian version of blackcurrant? Well maybe, but so far I’m not aware of anything that is remotely similar. At least tasting a Cab Sauv will tell you what blackcurrant is all about! Always helps to think the glass is half full!

The need of the hour is a basic and simple but systematic approach aimed at these emerging markets. As mentioned, the primary flavour profiles of wines as they are mentioned in wine literature are likely to firmly hold their ground until relevant substitutes are agreed upon. In the meantime, more attention should be diverted towards heavy and technical descriptors like Malo, Rancio, fruit laced Autolytic characters, Hollow mid-palate, Horsey nose, chewy phenolics, toasty oak with leathery undertones etc, that tend to become too overbearing on novice and evolving palates. Clichés and stereotypes may have to be relinquished in favour of practicality and acceptance.

Any volunteers to bell the cat?

Cheers and happy 2009!

Niladri